In my
last article, Black Beary Milkshakes, I briefly mentioned The Galloping
Gourmet. Later, it occurred to me that
many of you might be unfamiliar with Chef Graham Kerr, who was the namesake and
star of the live studio television show that ran from 1969-1971. His signature entrance onto the stage
involved running in and leaping over a dining room chair. Chef Kerr’s nickname was acquired after
taking a 35 day trek around the world with a wine expert named Len Evans. The two men visited some of the finest
restaurants in existence at the time and wrote a book at the end of their
travels titled, The Galloping Gourmets.
My
mother-in-law once said, “Gourmet just means the food is served with a rich
sauce on it.” Apparently, she wasn’t far
from the truth when considering the early recipes of Chef Kerr routinely used
large amounts of butter, cream and wines to flavor and coat his meals. Of course, this was before our society was so
aware that such fat-laden meals, while pleasing to the palate, weren’t the best
choices for our hearts and health.
However,
even with our current knowledge, we often chose foods, not for their
nutritional value, but for how they will tantalize our taste buds or satisfy us
emotionally. We even have the term “comfort
food”, which first entered our vocabulary in 1977, to describe food that is
easily prepared, associated with home, contentment, or has a nostalgic or
sentimental appeal. Comfort foods are
typically high in sugars or carbohydrates and are often used to alter our moods
when we are sad, worried or homesick.
Besides, being chosen for taste or emotional needs, we also chose foods
based on activity—we associate certain foods with certain activities. Can you imagine a baseball game without hot
dogs and peanuts or a campfire without marshmallows or s’mores?
The
thru-hiker on the A.T. is not like The Galloping Gourmet, making meals from
scratch in an elaborately equipped kitchen.
No, the thru-hiker is The Backpacking Boiler usually equipped with a
small, titanium, 2 cup capacity pot with a lid that doubles as a fry pan, a
spork, a mug, a cozy and a single burner alcohol stove made from a soda can or
the more elaborate canister fuel stove with an adjustable flame. The extravagant thru-hiker will carry such
luxuries as a plate, micro-cooking utensils or larger pot. Anything beyond these items is considered
unnecessary and outlandish. With these
items, the Backpacking Boiler must make all the associated camping and comfort
foods they can for their psychological well-being on the trail.
If
you’ve never cooked using a 6” titanium fry pan, let me assure you that it
requires a little bit of finesse to manage the heat dispensation. I had read that it was different than using
aluminum pans and that practice was advised before hitting the trail. Since I am conducting a fuel test to estimate
how long a fuel canister will last with my particular cooking habits, this is
an ideal time to try out some basic trail recipes, practice with my cookware
and micro-utensils. (Yes, I’m carrying these luxury items.) The micro-utensils consist of a spatula with
a roughly 2” x 2” head on a 4” handle and a matching spork, both made of a
lightweight, high temperature nylon polymer.
I set
up my stove and decided to try making some basic pan drop trail biscuits. I’m thinking that if this experiment goes
well, these biscuits would not only be good for breakfast with jam, honey or
gravy, but could provide me with bread for lunch time mini sandwiches. I mix the batter in a plastic Ziploc type bag
to simulate trail conditions and plop the first dollop of batter into my
skillet. It’s immediately obvious that
my pan is too hot even though the flame is low.
I turn the flame down even farther while lifting the pan up and away
from the heat. I continue to try to
control the amount of heat the pan is transmitting to the batter and eventually
attempt to flip the biscuit which is sticking to the pan. When I manage to get the biscuit turned, a
lovely dark charcoal circle is revealed.
Once the other side of the biscuit has had adequate time to brown, I
remove this culinary masterpiece to my inverted small pot to cool a moment and
shut off the stove. Now for the taste
test, mmmm…a bold burnt flavor covering a delightfully doughy middle; the dog
loved it.
Okay,
now I understand why practice is recommended and I’ve definitely learned from
my first attempt, so let’s try again. This time I decide to go for a thinner batter
and try pancakes lightly greasing the pan first with some olive oil. I’m so focused on trying to control the heat
that I make the pancake too big to be successfully turned with my micro-spatula. As I cut the pancake into smaller pieces that
the spatula can handle, the remaining pieces begin to stick and are starting to
burn. I’m beginning to feel like the
Jolly Green Giant trying to cook with Barbie’s Easy Bake Oven. As the small wisps of smoke rise from the
pan, I’m thankful the smoke detector is not too close to where I’m
working.
After
finishing off the other side of my pancake puzzle pieces, I pour a little syrup
on it and choke it down. Not too bad;
only one side was slightly burned and the syrup definitely helped. I’m thinking, “Okay, use a little more oil,
keep the pan moving over the flame for heat control and make small pancakes the
spatula can handle and you’ve got it!
Good, because I don’t want to eat nothing but boil-a-bag meals for 6
months.”
The
Backpacking Boiler’s specialty is, after all, boiling water. We boil water to make instant coffee, tea or
hot cocoa. We boil water to make pasta,
rice, oatmeal or grits. And most
importantly, we boil water to re-hydrate any number of pre-packaged meals,
either commercially or homemade, that come in a plastic re-sealable bag. This is where the cozy becomes a vital part
of the hiker’s kitchen.
If
you’re unfamiliar with the term ‘cozy’, (I was until my education of
backpacking began), it is simply an insulated pouch in which to hold your meal
bag, keeping it warm while the contents absorb a sufficient amount of liquid to
become edible. Most often, backpackers will
make their own cozies out of those shiny, windshield sunscreens and duct tape
or the really talented ones sew their cozy seams.
The
other important part of this cooking method, sometimes called freezer bag
cooking, is the bag holding the actual food.
If you are using one of the commercially prepared meals, you have no
worries as their bags are more than adequately designed to handle the 212*F
water. However, if you are making your
own dehydrated meals, you had better be sure your re-sealable bag can handle
the heat; otherwise, dinner could end up in the dirt.
So, I
boiled a couple cups of water and poured it into a one quart off-brand food
storage bag that was not rated as a freezer bag which is much thicker. I decided to let it sit for 15 minutes which
is usually the longest amount of time any meal takes to rehydrate. As a precaution against the bag failing the
test, I placed it upright in a large measuring pitcher. The bag became soft, but it held.
I
figured while the bag was full, I should slip it into my homemade cozy and test
the fit. The bag fit wonderfully, but
what I didn’t realize was that the bag was not totally sealed, so when I laid
the cozy down and was securing the fold-over flap to close it, the slightly
less than boiling water gushed out of the bag and splattered onto my sock
covered foot sending me hopping across the kitchen for a hand-towel to dry my
now burning toes. Another lesson learned;
ensure you bag is fully sealed or keep the cozy upright.
*Photos courtesy of http://www.100miles.com/graham-kerr-the-galloping-gourmet/
Great post, April.
ReplyDeleteI am also finding myself experimenting with new, and sometimes disgusting, trail-friendly foods. Maybe these meals will taste better after we're completely exhausted after a long day hiking? Until then, I hope the buffets in the towns are REALLY amazing.. ;)
I tend to think that will be the case...we'll be so exhausted and hungry by the end of the day that just about anything will taste good. I know from previous deprivation situations though, the cravings for things you don't have access to can get mighty strong, but you wait it out and appreciate those flavors more on the return.
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